|ICM Nakajima Ki-27 (Type 97 fighter) Otsu in 1/72 scale
|1||A1 (Thorpe's scan 1)||A12 (Thorpe's scan 1)|
|2||#21 Midoro Iro (Owaki)||A12 (Thorpe's scan 1)|
|3||#21 Midoro Iro (Owaki)||#29 K1 Midoro Iro (Owaki)|
|4||#21 Midoro Iro (Owaki)||#33 Khaki Iro (Owaki)|
|5||#21 Midoro Iro (Owaki)||#31 Cha Kasshoku (Owaki)|
|6||#21 Midoro Iro (Owaki)||#24 Ryoku Kasshoku (Owaki)|
|7||#21 Midoro Iro (Owaki)||A12 (Thorpe's scan 2)|
|8||A1 (Thorpe scan 2)||A12 (Thorpe's scan 2)|
|Main camouflage weathering steps|
|1. Thinned oil/enamel filters: as I mentioned in the text, I did not use highlights on the
green/brown camouflage. The application of tonal variations to differentiate a few
selected panels helped to add more interest and realism.|
2. Oil/enamel washes: at this point, the panel lines, rivets, access panels, and fasteners were not evidenced. A dark brown wash made them more distinguishable. Usually, I apply a heavier wash around the engine, wing roots, control surfaces hinges, flaps, behind landing gear, and the underside of the fuselage. In the remaining places, I used a more diluted wash or do not apply any at all. It is also nice to switch to almost black color in some spots like close to the exhaust stacks and cowling fasteners. And since the model was riveted, on the brown/green areas and Hinomarus I used a grey wash to highlight some of the rivets. I had to re-apply the wash on a few places later on, too.
3. Dot filtering: pure (non thinned) oils were used to simulate fading and grime on the brown/green camouflage. Dot filtering also complements liquid filters by accentuating the difference between panels. Grey areas were treated with pure white only, instead of several colors like usually done with this technique.
4. Light paint chipping: because this aircraft was camouflaged in the field, I assumed that the brown/green colors would chip more easily, showing the factory-applied grey through. All the chipping on this model was simulated exclusively using pencils. Light and medium grey were used to replicate the paint chipping and scuffing on the camouflaged areas. On the grey areas, light chipping was simulated using very light grey pencils.
5. Heavy paint chipping: deeper paint chipping can reveal the aluminum underneath or accumulate dirt and grime. Pencils were also used for this, particularly inside the previous light grey chipping around cowling, cockpit, and wing roots. I alternated dark grey and aluminum pencils.
6. Air wash: that's how I call the heavily thinned dark brown mix airbrushed around movable parts, panel lines and alike to simulate false shadow and dirt accumulation. I also use this method to add dirt to the parts of the aircraft which are closer to the ground, like the underside of the tail and, in this particular case, landing gear spats.
7. Streaking: referring to photos, I like to make dark streaks of grime or fluids at specific spots, following the airflow. Usually, I pick a couple of fasteners in the engine area, engine outlets, and hinges of the control surfaces. This is done either with oils or aquarellable pencils.
|Engine cowling weathering steps|
this is the very first step, and I generally do it during the air-wash
(post shading panel lines and such). I add more black to the mix and I
airbrush a base of almost-transparent soot. It is like a filter applied
in streaks. It tries to emulate the soot accumulated that is cleaned by
the ground crew after each mission, but with continuous use under
combat conditions the area ends up permanently stained. It is
possible to use transparent colors like Tamiya XF-19 Smoke or Ammo
shaders, but I prefer diluted acrylics because (i) they can be easily
cleaned in case of disaster and (ii) they are flat.|
2. Streaking: here I use little dots of pure oils smudged following the airflow to make dark streaks of fluids and grime flowing out of the engine compartment. In the present case, I used dark mud and starship filth from Ammo, and the effect can be repeated at some particular spots. Just don't do it all over the place because an aircraft does not have fluids flowing from every and each panel line/orifice. It is nice to accentuate some streaks using pure black oils or aquarelle pencils afterward or re-applying the streak with a very fine brush or making a new trail inside the previous streaking mark.
3. Diffusing: it does more or less the same that the sooting, except that we use pastels applied with a small brush. The objective is to make the streaking a tad more diffuse and emulate the recent soot. In general, I make large streaks of black pastel powder and then I refine the effect with greys to simulate high-temperature areas and burning residuals deposited.
||- ICM 72201
||- Trytools PE seat belts
||- Primer: automotive lacquer primer.
- IJA grey: Tom Colors.
- Camouflage reen: mix of Tamiya colors.
- Camouflage brown: mix of Tamiya and GSI colors.
- Aluminum: GSI Gunze Mr.Color Silver (#008).
- Clear coats: Testors Model Master Acryl.
||- Scratchbuilt propeller
- Landing gear spats stolen from the RS kit
- Some other scratchbuilt items (see text)